FIW British Militia Units

I have been under the weather with a bad flue for the last little while but thought I should post something as I’m starting to feel a little better now.

Back to one of my long term projects – French Indian wars in 15mm.Here we have have 2 units of British Militia from the ‘Canadian’ area. Well that’s my first take anyway, but they could equally be Loyalist forces in the American Revolution\Revolt. All the figures are from Blue Moon – who are my favorite manufacture for this period. These are a single pack so you can’t really complain on the number of figs which are in a pack for the price.

The first unit has a slightly odd colour jackets, but on purpose. Really wanted to do something a little different for them and from my understanding local units, or rather their commander choose the jacket material. So to make these stand out a little I went for a faded purple with red cuffs/turnbacks. That would have been a somewhat expensive dye at the time but heck makes them really stand out on the table. These guys are not likely to be hiding in the forest anyway so something which is different is nice to do. The command figures for the first regiment is above, along with a couple of troopers marching. Then below you can see the remaining 10 figures in the unit. For most games of the period (Sharpe Practice, Muskets and tomahawks etc) the 16 figures should allow me to field 1 large or 2 normal sized units with these.Then we have a second unit. These have a more traditional orange/red jacket with yellow cuffs/turnbacks. There are only 14 of these but again that’s enough for one if not 2 units for games. The flag bearers are really for display and likely will not be used that much but as they were in the pack they really needed to be done. These should be useful for providing a bit of resistance to the French and rebellious subject of his majesty in the colonies in games and provide an option which is not the normal red coat opponent.So more figs ready for FIW action.

Posted in 15mm, American War of Independence, French Indian War | Leave a comment

Franks and Lightnings – a CY6 game

So, this week is the usual one of year that I run a CY6! game for our little group. This year continued the tradition so i thought I’d o a quick write up of the game. This time we had a poor turn out of only 3 players, but we decided give it a go anyway. CY6 is a good game for odd numbers of players anyway. So, I came up with a quick scenario after a discussion with the players.

We did a small Japanese fighter patrol trying to stop a late war liberator raid. This was a mid altitude engagement with the Liberators just having a pair of P-38 lightnings as a fighter screen. Obviously, the US were either not expecting trouble or the rest of the fighter screen did not make it/had already been pulled away. The Japanese fighter patrol consisted of a couple of Zero’s and four Nakajima Ki-84 nicknamed the ‘Frank’ by the allies. Yes the Ki-84 and P-38’s are models which have not been used in a game so it was a good excuse to get them on the table. The mission was simple. The bombers were to exit off the edge of the table on route to their target – the Japanese had to stop them, coming in from a frontal position. The game started within visual range. The Japanese fighters planned to avoid a headlong joust with the bombers and both sets seemed to be heading around the side of the bomber boxes. In response the Lightnings started to speed up to head out to meet the Japanese fighters out front.

You may note in the pictures, as is common in our games of CY6 the bombers all use static stands with dials. They were all at speed 2, altitude 2 in this game unless damaged. The fighters though used a red dice for speed and lego pegs for altitude.   I was flying the Americans and took a purposeful decision to split the pair of lightnings so one would go down each flank. In many ways this was to ensure either of my opponents had just had a turkey shoot type game, but also I did believe that the single lightning could likely cause enough trouble for each fighter group and even take down some of the Japanese while they concentrated on the bombers.

The left hand lightning found he actually had a chase on his hands as the Japanese on that side gave him and bombers large amount of room. I used the Altitude and speed of the lightning to give chase, concentrating more on the Franks than the Zero on this side. They were by far the most dangerous planes long term.On the right side the Japanese seemed to be coming in closer to the bombers, looking to turn in and hit them from the side. Thats a harder shot but reduces the amount of guns the Liberators can target them with. The Lightning on this side kept a little more height so that it could use a dive at the right time to really get close for the kill if the Japanese did turn into the side of the bomber box.  That’s exactly what happened. Below you’ll notice that a Liberator is missing as is the Zero. Yes the Zero got right next to the Liberator and took it out with it’s first shot. The only bright spot, if you can call it that for the US, was the return shot from the top gun turret of the liberator took out the Zero at the same time. So two aircraft down in flames in the first exchange.

The P-38 used it’s dive to move forward to close the distant with a Frank. This was an aggressive move as although it closed the distance between the planes it also moved the Lightning into arc of the Frank for a return shot. In the end the risk did not work out, as the Frank got away undamaged but the P-38 had an airframe hit. So much for taking such risks…On the left hand side again the Zero there made the turn in to the bomber group and got one good hit on a bomber – causing an airframe damage. While that happen the P-38 on that side was still chasing the Franks who made a longer turn, planning to come up on the back of the bombers.The next turn the Zero ended right in the middle of the bomber box! The bomber group guns did there job and the Zero then went down in flames – too many top gun focused on it at close range. But it did get to damage another bomber. So both Zero pilots had been very aggressive in their attacks and although had caused a lot of damage they had paid the ultimate price as for that.

On the right the both the Franks swung around behind the three remaining bombers and  heavy exchange of fire occurred between them an the Liberators. Plenty of shots were exchanged but no further aircraft were damaged – at least for the next few turns. The Liberators had to provide their own defense though as the damaged P-38 on this side swung around in a wide left turn to get back into the fight while trying not to push the damaged aircraft too much.

At this point the Franks on the left were turning in and the P-38 was getting ready to engage them, again panning to use it’s altitude and speed advantage. That P-38 did a Split S, trading both the altitude and speed for a perfect shot – which of course it missed completely. It then continued to move to get in position to take on a Frank. The Frank though moved to try to avoid being shot while still getting to shot the Liberators. This meant that both aircraft ended up crashing into each other! So much for late war pilots. The Frank was out of control but would eventually be recovered by the pilot, but the aircraft was by then too far out of the action to take any part in the rest of the game. However, the lighting was down in flames after the crash. That Japanese Pilot had obviously taken the Kamikaze spirit to heart and it had worked!

The other Frank on the left had come around the back of the bomber group and started to catch up with them, and shoot them while doing this.  It did shoot down one of the already damaged Liberators on that side but then just to a little too close to a damaged Liberator which returned the favor and winged it with an airframe damage. As  it got close to the two remaining bombers of this left hand box those bombers managed to finish the job. So that was the final Frank thread dealt with on left side.As can be seen from the picture above the the two Franks on the right closed up to the other bomber group and by this time had managed to shot down another Liberator. Finally the strength of the liberators was starting to pay off as they were hit a lot but survived the damage. The US crews were hammering away at the Franks as well, but the extra robustness of the Franks compared to Zero’s kept them in the air. A lot of aircraft had holes in them that’s for sure.

The remaining P-38 did come around and had closed on the the Franks from the rear. That pressure with the continued defensive fire from the bomber crews finally brought one of the Franks down. The other, now out of cannon ammo after destroying a rear gunner of one Liberator, decided to spin around and try to take out the P-38 in a parting shot. It used the rest of its HMG ammo in the attempt, which hit but failed to do any damage in the P-38. The P-38 in response managed to damage the Frank in return. That Frank had been hit more time than any other plane in the game but this was the first real damage it suffered.

That in effect ended the game. That last engaged Frank dived out of the combat, now out of ammo. The other Frank was too far out of the action to do anything. So 4 bombers got through to complete the mission, another limped home with engine damage. This meant it was a win for the Japanese even though they lost 4 aircraft.

So there we are. Overall, another great game where everyone had fun and as normal the CY6! game provided a great game for all.Obviously more players/pilots means more a more chaotic game which we all like but the game still works well with just three of us playing.

Posted in 6mm, After Action Report, Aircarft | 3 Comments

The Cardinal and the Highwayman 

I was tidying up my painting space (oh and yes it was desperately needed, so much so that I’m not going to show any pictures of it), when I found 2 more sets of Blue Moon 15mm Renaissance figs along with a single pack of 3 Essex figures. The Essex figs were for the same period. So rather than just put these back into storage I decided I would quickly finish these off to add to the figs I have done for the En Garde game. So here they are below. First the 3 Essex minaitures. These I think I got as part of a purchase of reduced price models when I was building up my ECW collection. However, they are a little early for that really so they work well for this. I decided to paint them up as more of the Cardinals Guard. After all they will need to numbers if fighting the 3 Musketeers, even on horseback.img_1676

Next we have the set of Highway robbers. There was one mounted figure and three dismounted. With the ‘bad guys’ I have already painted these should work to make a nice little faction for a 3rd player in games.

The highwaymen of the time were often out of work soldiers/sailors who had fallen on hard times. That allows them to be more skilled than the normal guard in the game. I must admit I like how these came out and they have a lot of character for 15mm figures. I also ensured that each of them has a slightly different colour coat as well as a different pose so as to aid differentiation on the table. The last pack had the Cardinal – Richelieu himself and likely a figure aimed to be “The Man from Meung”  i.e. Count de Rochefort. As I have already done one figure which could be that character with darker hair, I thought it right to give this one fair hair! These two can be great extra characters and plot items in games if need be. img_1679Lastly as part of the cardinal pack were three ladies. My guess is again these are aimed to characters in ‘the book’ for the period. Likely the Queen Anne, Constance and Milady de Winter. I tried to do the figures to a nice level so they stand out which I believe I achieved. These pictures for the blog makes them look a little primitive for final effects but in real life they look decent, especially for small scale gaming.Well there we are I did not expect to do any more of these but why not if they were there.

Posted in 15mm, 17th Cent, Ronin/En Garde | Leave a comment

Arcadia Quest extra figures

Arcadia Quest as a game has gone down well with the local group – a couple of gaming sessions of it have been fun and enjoyed by all. This also triggered a general desire for me to paint more models so we have more option when it comes to playing again. So with that aim I targeted the 5 optional heroes I got in the original Kickstarter. You can see them all finished below.I partly (well maybe mainly) got Arcadia Quest as a painting challenge as the models look cool and are very different than the normal figs I paint. I did not know much about the game when getting the kickstarter but it seemed like a fun thing to paint and very different than the ‘normal stuff’ I paint. The all against all style without being too serious also is one of my favorite styles of game so that was interesting as well.

So I have been quite impressed on the final effects I have managed. Below are the close up’s of the different models. They are not competition style perfect which some people can achieve but on the table they do look rather good in my opinion. So I’m happy with them and have had some very nice comments from friends who have seen them in person – and are very good painters themselves, better than me anyway. I have but each one with their character card so you can see how I have matched the artwork with the figures.

The first of the lot for a close up is Bob – modeled after a certain Monty Python character I believe.img_1558

Next we have Nibbles – again I think the Arcadia Quest nod to Monty Pythons killer Bunny…img_1556




The base set has a ‘Conan style’ hero so here we have Grace Jones inspired fig to match.img_1557

Some of the additional set of hero characters (which I have still to paint) has Monkey and his wife from the eastern myths so here is Pigsy as a companion to those characters.img_1559





And lastly a Hydra lady. I found the skin tones and snakes particularly hard on this one but heck it seemed to come out ok in the end.



So there we are 5 more characters for Arcadia Quest all ready to play. In fact they have hit the table already, so I am late with this post really. We had fun playing with these a couple of weeks ago.

Posted in 28mm, Board game, Fantasy | Leave a comment

1930’s G-men for Chicago Way

With all the gangsters around the cops needed some extra help in the 1930’s and that where Elliott Ness and the untouchables come into the frame. Often used by Hollywood their legend is a lot more than the reality, but still any game for the period needs to include these as part of the it. Blue moon have a pack and so, so do I and you can see them all below.

eswewjesjfer68sz6fahdv6plxvThere are only 10 government figures but again that’s  enough for the Chicago Way game. They even have one with a flat cap – I suspect trying to model the untouchables movie with Kevin Costner and Sean Connery. The whole Chicago Way game is based on that style of movie, if not that one specifically. The original TV series which really made them popular in the first place though is the real classic. I have to say the few episodes I have seen of the TV series looks great and holds up well really even today. I love some of the old promotion material as it is very evocative of the period, as you can see opposite. The Untouchables redefine the TV crime drama and added thrills and action to the crime genre when released. That also really brought the G-men to the forefront of the story. Oh and they still are great to watch if you get a chance – if you search Youtube you can find some of the originals there. The quality commentary and special effects may not hold up to today but it has a certain appeal to me. But anyway to the figures and you can see them all below.
The group also include the photographer – I assume that’s what the middle figure has in his hands, although it could be a ledger book or some such as well. Either way these are fun figs which will be great for taking on the mob. The others have a rifle and a tommy gun, good weapons for the G-men.
Next we have three more of the G-men, pistols at the ready. Again these have different basing colors which should make these guys easy to spot on the table and separate from the gangsters and cops I have already done.

The last four figures round out this group of crime fighters. They keep crime down and look stylish in those hats as well.

Well that’s enough for this post. These are fun models overall.

Posted in 15mm, Gangster, Modern, Pulp | Leave a comment

Witch Coven of Garlghast and Pulp Alley stats

Well I have all these figs and some of them are taking up space on my painting table. I am in the middle of a re-org of my painting area but that’s another story. So I occasionally look at them and decide that I need to get another few of them done. One of the groups I has was this group of interesting ladies and a ‘golf ball’ as well as some other figs.

This turned out to be called ‘The Witch Coven of Garlghast’. The golf ball floats around and these bad ladies summon nasty things etc. They are all joined together in the background and work as a team, which is greater in sum than the parts etc. This actually sounds quite like a supervillan type background/theme thing to me. One reason I have that as a tag for this post. Cryx are evil so it makes sense as well. Anyway, below you can see the final figures after by dabbing with the paint brush.IMG_0542 (800x440)I actually have the ball raised from the base by use a single dress pin. You can see it below in a little more detail. I was not sure how the original model was supported to work but that this ok for me. I drilled the pin hole in the base and then secured the end of the pin in the base and drilled a hole in the ball for the pin to go. It seems to work well so far!

Overall I have to say I like how this has come out and they do make a nasty looking group. I stayed with the green theme. The ball is called ‘the Egregore’ and has paint I specifically bought for this model. That very luminescent green. That does give it a nice evil glow…I included a few pictures together below, you can click on them to make them bigger.

As well as doing that I finished three more war machine jacks for the Cryx forces. Two of these are missile ones. You can see these below. I’m not 100% sure which of the specific missile figures they in the war machine game but they are painted differently than the others I have done, but in the same theme. Both are nearly identical to allow me to use them for a different type should I desire. I likely should put some mark on the base to differentiate them. The rusty metal look still gives them an nice otherworld look.IMG_0545 (800x441)IMG_0548 (800x754)Lastly, I did another of the teeth monster Jack for the Cryx faction. I already have a load of these but the 2nd hand stuff I got had quite a few. These will be great for mid level monsters and other things. As I again kept the theme but did different colors on this one so it could be something different or just a variant easy to identify. In the limited war machine games I have played I really liked how these worked. They have a very ‘pitbull’ style attack.

I believe the Cryx background has these things being made of spare parts by their mad necromantic scientist so a consistent build and color scheme seems an unlikely thing to have.

I have actually been thinking of using these for a pulp alley game. Here are the stats that I knocked up for these as a force. This does not use any of the fantasy special rules as I want to keep my first games fairly simple. I likely will set the game in the Privateer Press background and create a few leagues as they are called in Pulp Ally to try of the rules.Below is my first attempt – It’s not optimized but seems to fit the models.

Team Perks Companions – (gives all allies in the group an extra ability but can never have a sidekick model), Resourceful (as an action a member of the league may discard a fortune card and draw a replacement from the top of the deck).

Leader – Egregore
Brawl   2d8   Shoot    3d8   Dodge  3d10    Might   2d10    Finesse   3d10   Cunning    3d10  Health   d10
Abilities: Commander (extra legaue members), Shrewd (Dodge and cunning not lowered due to injuries), Intimidating (lower level enemies must pass a cunning test to fight, otherwise they can only dodge),

Ally – Witch 1 – both arms down.
Brawl   –  Shoot    3d6   Dodge  3d6    Might   1d6    Finesse   1d6   Cunning    2d6
Health   d6
Abilities: Brainy (in stats) , Marksman (in stats)

Ally – Witch 2 – Dagger held above head
Brawl   2d6  Shoot    1d6   Dodge  2d6    Might   3d6    Finesse   1d6   Cunning    1d6
Health   d6
Abilities: Mighty (in stats), Agile (in stats)

Ally – Witch 3 – Danger held at waist
Brawl   1d6  Shoot    1d6   Dodge  2d6    Might   1d6    Finesse   3d6   Cunning    1d6
Health   d6
Abilities: Savy (in stats), Trick (once per turn may spend a card to get +1 shooting or finesse roll)

Ally – Pitball Jack
Brawl   3d8  Shoot    –   Dodge  2d6    Might   2d8    Finesse   –   Cunning    –
Health   d6
Abilities: Mindless (in stats), Animal (in stats)

Ally – Shooting Jack 1 & 2
Brawl   1d8  Shoot    2D6   Dodge  2d6    Might   1d8    Finesse   –   Cunning    –
Health   d6
Abilities: Mindless (in stats), Speedy (may run 16″)

Posted in 28mm, Pulp, Superhero, Warmachine | 2 Comments

Honours of War first game 

This week we tried a new set of Seven Years Wars rules – well fairly new, they are another of the Osprey rules collection. They are called Honors of War and written by Keith Flint. I had bough the kindle version of these a while back and recently read them while traveling on business. So wanted to give them a go. With that I thought I’d write up a quick report of the battle we played and add some thoughts of the game and rules. I’m not going to provide a full detailed summary of the rules etc – you can check various other review blogs for that if your interested. Overall though I do like the game and recommend them for those interested in the period. Read on for the why’s and wherefores.

crfgspknbez7lnxd4mzySo lets start with a quick summary of my thoughts about the rules. Then you can see how a medium sized game with 4 players played out. Overall, the I liked the rules and will play the game again. I see this as becoming my go to rules set for multi-player or large SYW games. It feels quite like Black Powder, but removes the genericness of those rules as well as having a better command and combat mechanism. I guess that’s really rather good praise thinking about it. The command and control rules still provides a level of randomness in what you can do, but means that you do not have the ‘side out’ effect which is quite common in the BP rules. By that I mean where a player rolls a bad die for command and does nothing for a turn. That can be frustrating and not make for a good experience. The combat mechanisms and rally rules allow for combats which are effective but not instantly deadly. I like the balance between the different arms of cavalry to infantry to artillery as well. All in all the command and combat all add to the feeling of being ‘right’ for the period. Even the use of average die for combat is not an issue as I have  couple of those in my dice collection!

In comparison to Maurice by Sam Mustafa, which is the other main rules set I have used for the period it’s a little like comparing apples to oranges. Maurice is a very stylized game, which uses cards for command and control as well as other game modifying factors. Thus, you end up playing the game and cards as much as the battle. That’s cool and you think about the game in a different way when playing Maurice – often worrying as much if not more about cards and command movements as the position of troops. This is great and gives a great game but it’s completely different style of game than Honors of War. The forces and style of game in Maurice are very specific in size. I would never think of going a real historical game in Maurice even after playing many enjoyable games. It’s for imagi-nations and stylized games of a certain size for me and I really like it for that. Others may disagree but there we are.

Honors of War is much more a ‘traditional game’ and there is nothing wring with that. It has enough command elements to remove the helicopter view and total control of troops in your command.  But you focus on moving troops and what they do and roll dice for combat. The game style and action order is also set up so it’s more interactive than a traditional ‘I go U go’ game which makes really well suited to multi-player games as well as 1 on 1. No one was bored or waiting long to do something in our game, which was great.I  like that the rules do move initiative and then firing initiative separate as it gives a very interesting dynamic game. The alternating command move and fire system also means that often is a decision and risk/reward for the player and a choice of where to concentrate first. Honours of war also allows you to play real realistic games of the period and even very large ones in 6mm, which is cool. I believe it will also work for smaller number of unit games as well but as I have 6mm for this period my main focus is on larger games to be honest.

So overall I really liked these rules and will play them again. They won’t replace Maurice but will sit along side them. They allow me to play a completely different style of game with the same figs. That’s a real bonus in my opinion. It may get me painting more 6mm figs SYW figs in the end as well. So I’d recommend anyone have a look at these rules. They are well worth a try.

So with that intro, onto our first game…

In the game we used 2 of the painted Maurice forces (with a few extra troops) to create a medium sized game on a 6 x 4 table. Each side was identical, to try out the game in an easy way. It was an Austrian Civil war! Each side had 1 brigade of guards (superior infantry with battalion guns) and 2 infantry bridges. Each had 4 battalions and a supporting art unit. Each side also have 2 brigades of Cav. Both had  4 normal units and one had 2 supporting inferior cavalry regiments as well. Each side had 2 independent light infantry battalions to round things off. So that was 27 units to each side in 5 brigades with 2 players on each side jointly handling the command tasks.

In using 6mm we started the forces 2 feet away from each other. Which was maybe a little too far away really to get the game done in 2.5 hours with this size of game. We should likely have had the art start limbered but it was man pushed though the whole game. Ah well next time…It did allow space to maneuver though. You can see a nice shot of the starting center from our side of the table below.    You’ll see I forgot my small dice for hits and command tokens for the different levels of command. So as you can see the the big dice we used in the game. It makes the board look a little less great but heck, it worked out ok in the end for us. Below you can see our right flank with the cavalry and the light infantry covering the woods.On our left we had a dashing cavalry command and a dithering infantry one. We left the dice roll of the commanders level by the brigade commander to remind us (as no markers from me as I mentioned above…). Those command levels are interesting enough that they came into play a few times during the game. So it really is a fun mechanic and interesting but not so overpowering as to leave players sat doing nothing for a long time.  In the first couple of turn the battle lines closed. We saw the various command rules work out with some of the opposing infantry commanders deciding not to move forward. Entertainingly it seemed the opposing Guard commander was more interested in not losing his troops than committing them to the battle as that command was the one most often not moving forward.  On the right flank though things seemed to be going well with our cavalry moving confidently forward along with the supporting light infantry. The opposing light infantry would be happened with poor command all game – not using their 2 to 1 numerical advantage at all on this flank. In the end they did win a brutal hand to hand struggle but it took all game too do.In the first aggressive move of the game the right flank cavalry (under my command) got a double move and charged into their opposition. This was our smaller cavalry brigade vs their larger one. The first combat saw our cavalry drive off a light cavalry unit. The next turn saw us get move initiative and with another double move rolled I followed this up with further attacks which drive off the other light cavalry unit. It also got a standard cavalry unit locked in melee with one of ours. So an aggressive move on the right seemed to have worked so far…On the left the battle lines closed. The decisive cavalry commander on the left was an advantage as the extra moves he rolled had allowed our stronger cavalry to move around the flank with the light cavalry riding though the fields, while the heavy stuff moved up vs. the opposing horse.

All the time the infantry slowly marched towards each other and the artillery started some long range shots. The dithers on our left formed a second line behind the cavalry after it’s aggressive forward moves. So we ended up with 2 lines of combat forces on the left.On the right flank though the whirling cavalry combats continued. Each side lost one regiment of normal cavalry and I had 2 driven back to reform, while 4 of the enemy were likewise in a poor state. This left me with one disrupted cavalry unit, on 3 hits out of 5 vs a fresh enemy unit. The unit positions meant that my unit was in a perfect position to charge down one of the enemy who needed to reform. This would likely route the enemy and likely the unit behind it as well. But of course this is where my command roll failed. My nicely positioned unit sat in place rather than following up on the charge. All the while the fresh enemy cavalry moved around in a position to flank it next turn. At least they had not rolled a double move which would have allowed them to do that charge in a single turn.On that turn though left flank cavalry did clashed. The cavalry battle here for us was less effective though. One unit retreated and the others were locked in combat. The commander was dashing but maybe not so effective in combat…A little too much dash and boasting not enough real steel maybe.  Still we had a second line of infantry and it had not gone too bad either. Although, we did notice that having a second line meant that they took a hit as the first line routed through them. Still better than not having any support I guess. Spacing for retreats is obviously important and something we’ll have to think about in the future.All this time the center infantry bridges were still matching up to each other and starting to get in range. The art shots were being exchanged and the first hits were received – including one generating a bounce through. Units right behind each other beware. One of the enemy command elements also felt this, loosing a level of command, going from dashing to normal after the effects of cannon fire. The shot obviously had an effect or killed some of the commanders staff, or maybe the commander himself. The second line of infantry got involved in the cavalry fight on the left. The tactical aspects of the choice of ordering of bridges moves in the right sequence became even more apparent here as although moving to a flanking position can look really good one turn, if you don’t get to move first for the next one you can end up in a bad position as can be seen with one of the enemy foot units below.

Our light cavalry used the fields to evade charges of the remaining enemy cavalry while our  own brigade was completely spread out. The troops were mostly safe though and slowly rallying. They had destroyed 2 enemy cavalry to the loss of one of their own and opened the flank for our infantry.    In the center the two guards brigades clashed with a suitable amount of mayhem. We saw how better the superior vs normal infantry area. There is an advantage for the superior but not so great as to be overpowering. Hits started to mount on both sides.On the left flank I finally got my remaining cavalry unit to change the reforming opposition – again the order of movement was important. They won that fight and did destroy 2 enemy regiments (they routed their opposition which had to pass through a still rallying unit, which destroyed that as well), but were also routed by the combat in that action. The other cavalry units of both sides were rallying while our infantry on this side were coming up on the flank of the opposing guard and also on the now much diminished opposing cavalry.  The action really then focused on the center with another couple of turns of our guard, supported by the various infantry fighting the enemy infantry, guards and all. The mechanics of the game kept this every interesting and a few turns of shooting provided hits on all sides but it was not as bloody as may have been expected. It takes a few turns of combat to kill units in this game and you have some options for helping units at time. So it was a nice dynamic of risky combat but with risk of death as well.

However, as we were playing at a store our time was up and at this point the store was closing. It was 10:30 in the evening after all…So at this point we called the game – dusk fell over the battlefield without clear victory. I could say that it saved the enemy as both of their cavalry bridges had come out worse of the combats and the center infantry combat was still undecided but looking good for us. Well that’s my view anyway.

So just to finish up, the game worked well with 6mm and we had fun playing a very simple scenario. This is a game which I will definitely play again. I need to make some custom measuring sticks to make play easier and remember the small dice for casualties for next time of course. But this did have me thinking about getting some 6mm painting done again as well, so overall a fun game which we all enjoyed.

Posted in 18th Cent, 6mm, After Action Report, Review | 2 Comments